Something Fun

I just read about this fun thing on Keep On Knitting in the Free World. Miss Star Athena linked to leetahl.net and her clever idea for a Quick Knits Club. I couldn't resist after I looked at her other quick knits. This club is perfect for my needs - I am terrible at swaps and don't keep up on completing socks, so this little bit of fun will meet my desire to have little treasures arrive in my mailbox!

Lil' Peanut

It all began with the need to make the most adorable mini baby surprise jacket: 32 rows of satisfying knitting bliss and a class idea blooming. When I had spent about 2 hours making up two adorable minis, I realized that I really needed a model to display their cuteness.

Some misleading geometric guesses and a couple more hours later, I had my first prototype completed...too big in every way for the sweater. And, he was too long in the torso and in the head (little bit bullet headed). Some very easy adjustments to the original idea and about an hour and half later, I had a much more successful incarnation of a mini BSJ model.

Here is the pattern:
Notes:
*Depending on the gauge that you work your mini BSJ, use the same gauge to knit your lil' peanut.
*You will be placing a marker after the first repeat on needle one mainly to help you recall which needle is Needle one and, thus the beginning of the round.
*When stuffing, it is a delicate balance to make sure that you have enough to form the body body but not too much so that the sts are over stretched and expose the stuffing insides. Take care to find this balance.
*If you would like Lil' P to be a good shelf sitter then you can fill a little baggy with pellets and place it in the bottom of the body on a bed of fluff. If it is for a child, then skip the pellets or sew a well constructed pouch that can be sealed shut securely.

Gauge: 4 sts/in
Needles: 4 US8 DPNs
Yarn: Encore Worsted (get back to you on the yardage, but it isn't much)
Other: a bit of stuffing

With 2 DPNs, CO3.
Torso:
Round 1: With needle 1, kfb. With Needle 2, kfb. With needle 3, kfb. Continue in the round from here. (6sts)
Round 2: kfb, place marker, *kfb, repeat from * 4more times. (12 sts)
Round 3: Knit.
Round 4: *k1, kfb, repeat from* 5 more times. (18 sts)
Round 5: Knit.
Round 6: *k2, kfb, repeat from* 5 more times. (24 sts)
Round 7: Knit.
Round 8: *k3, kfb, repeat from* 5 more times. (30 sts)
Rounds 9-23: knit.
Shoudler Shaping:
Round 24: *k3, k2tog, repeat fro * 5 more times. (24 sts)
Round 25: Knit.
Round 26: *k2, k2tog, repeat fro * 5 more times. (18 sts)
Round 27: Knit.
Round 28: *k1, k2tog, repeat fro * 5 more times. (12 sts)
Neck:
Round 29-34: Knit.
STOP - stuff the body now.
Head:
Round 35: *k1, kfb, repeat from * 5 more times. (18 sts)
Round 36: Knit.
Round 37: *k2, kfb, repeat from * 5 more times. (24 sts)
Round 38-44: Knit.
STOP - stuff the head now. Just very slightly over stuff the head so that the stuffing fills in these last rows for the crown of the head.
Round 45: *k2, k2tog, repeat from * 5 more times. (18 sts)
Round 46: Knit.
Round 47: *K1, k2tog, repeat from * 5 more times. (12 sts)
Round 48: *k2tog, repeat from * 5 more times. (6 sts)
Cut a tail and draw it through the remaining 6 sts.
Weave in ends.
Picking up for the arms:
Find desired arm position. I placed mine on either side just below the shoulder shaping.
Pick up and knit one arm of three v's stacked on top of each other.
V
V
V
When adding the new yarn, be sure to leave a tail that is about 6" long; this tail can be used to neaten this joint later when weaving it in. Work a three st i-cord for 20 rows. Bind off by k2tog, k1, pass k2tog over k1. Weave in the tail. Tie a not at the end ot the completed i-cord. Repeat for second arm.

The legs are worked in a similar manner. The difference being that you pick up and knit one arm of three V's sittingnext to each other in a row. VVV
Work these I cord for 26 rows.

Enjoy.

FIbonacci stripes and STEEKS (or not)

Leo's Stripes: A Tale of at Least 2 Sweaters
Moonlight Stitches Creation by
Anne Lecrivain-Cozzoli

This sweater is a mix of Fibonacci numbers to create
a fun set of stripes. There is both a steeked version
(yes, that means cutting it)and a non-steeked
version (knit back and forth). It is worked top down and
allows you the ability to customize length of the body
and sleeves.

Materials: Worsted Weight yarn,
US8 – 16” circular, 24”-32” circular,
and 4 double pointed needles, stitch markers,
5 stitch holders or waste yarn, tapestry needle,
G(4.5mm) crochet hook (for steeked version)

Bust measurements: 36(38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50)”

Gauge: 4 sts/inch or 16sts per 4”

Short Sleeved Solid:
615 (650, 680, 715, 750,790, 820, 850) yds
Short Sleeved Striped:
A: 390 (410, 430, 455, 475, 500, 520, 540) yds
B: 130 (135, 140, 150, 155, 165, 170, 175) yds
C: 55 (60, 60, 65, 70, 70, 75,
75) yds
D: 195 (205, 215230, 240, 250, 260, 270) yds
Long Sleeved Solid:
920 (975, 1020, 1075, 1125, 1175, 1225, 1275) yds
Long Sleeved Striped: Additional of A:
310 (325, 340, 360, 375, 395, 410, 425) yds

Log Cabin and EZ's inspirational Force

I did debate on whether or not this was an original enough variation on EZ's tomten as published in Knitting Workshop. I decided that all the work I did in figuring out the sizing for such a wide range allowed me to have a small claim on this version.

This jacket uses Log Cabin blocks as the
foundation to build a tomten jacket, a
sweater formula originally created by Elizabeth
Zimmerman. This project flatters many figures
and uses fun techniques that rely on on very little
finishing for the completed garment.

To Fit Bust Sizes: 30 (32, 34, 38, 40, 42, 44,
46, 48, 50 , 52, 54)

Gauge: 4sts/in in garter st.

Materials:
For ¾ length sleeves: 8 (8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 10, 11,
11, 12, 12, 13, 13) balls of Noro Silk Garden,
110 yds (100 m) ea
For full length sleeves: 9 (9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11,
13, 13, 14, 14, 15, 15) balls of Noro Silk Garden,
110 yds (100 m) ea
5 stitch holders (or waste yarn), 16” and 24”
US8 circular needle (or size needle to achieve
gauge), US8 straight needle (optional), stitch
markers: 1 ring and 6 locking, 6 buttons

TOP DOWN for EVERYTHING

YES! I intended to shout that! Work form the top down just really works for my head whether it be a sweater or a shawl or a hat.

Seedy Topper: A Top Down Beret
Moonlight Stitches Creation by:
Anne Lecrivain-Cozzoli

This beret is worked from the top down
in seed stitch, a lovely way to enhance
variegated yarn.

Sizes for head circumferences: 20”(22”, 24”)
Should fit snuggly in the brim.
Yarn: 160 yards of worsted weight yarn
Tools: four US 8 DPNS, one US 8 16” circ.
Needle, stitch markers, tapestry needle

Long time, no Blog

I have been a busy busy bee - both at mothering/wife-ing and knitting.

For the next few days I am going to post a ton, as I have recently been publishing new pattern (or revamping old ones). I am going to do a few posts a day (this will make my life much easier later).

Let's begin: How bout at the top, with a top down beret.

Nah; I'll begin with a stranded fake isle hat.

XOXO Cap: A Fake Isle Charted Hat
Moonlight Stitches Creation by:
Anne Lecrivain-Cozzoli



This cap offers two designs to try out an easy
approach to stranded knitting. Using worsted
weight yarn in a solid and a self striping
colorway, these charts are inserted into a classic
cap for a stunning effect as the self striping yarn
changes color.

Gauge: 4 sts./in in St.st. with solid color (MC).

Size: One size fits most (20-22” heads)

Materials: 110 yds of a solid (MC) worsted
weight yarn and 110 yds of a self striping (CC)
worsted yarn (the sample was worked in
Cascade 220 and in Noro Kureyon); US 7
16” Circular needle, US 8 16” Circular needle,
a set of US 8 DPNs; stitch markers.

Note: Fake Isle is really fair isle - but it sounds less scary and is a touch easier because the yarn does the hard work.